English Amateur Billiards Association

EABA : The Billiard Monthly : January, 1911

The Billiard Monthly : January, 1911

A Few Cue Tips

(Third Instalment)

Last month we said:—”The point of aim in screw and
tight cushion kiss strokes is where two lines at equal angle
converge from the cue ball to the objective.” Several subscribers
have asked us to make this a little clearer and we
will, therefore, put it thus:—”The aim in fuller than halfball
screw and tight cushion strokes is on the surface of
the object ball on an imaginary line drawn from its centre
which bisects the angle made by two other lines converging
upon such centre from the centres of the cue ball and the
second objective. Thus a half-ball screw or kiss is aimed
at the edge and the aim is proportionately fuller for acuter
angles up to the straight drawback or kiss

When the red is on the, spot try to get to hand with a
stroke that will leave the white in position for the drop
cannon. When the red is over a pocket try to get to hand
with a stroke that will leave the white behind the billiard
spot and then follow with a pot stroke that guides the cue
ball into gentle cannon position at the spot. Sometimes a
little preliminary manoeuvring may be necessary, but the
end to be attained should be steadily kept in view.

In playing cushion cannons with side, be sure and play
fine enough, and when the fine stroke is not on, play
very full. This equally applies when the object ball is
against a cushion. Run through in all strokes when the
possibility of the fine stroke is doubtful, and a kiss will not
result. Run through strokes are more often good position
strokes than are fine strokes.

When you have nothing better to do place a piece of
chalk or anything else measuring a shade over ¾ inch in
height on the billiard table and a ball close behind it. Now
lay your cue tip on the chalk and you have found the vertical
centre of the ball, and the place to hit in all plain
strokes, although you may not think so.

Any stroke can be made or position secured by the use
of nine contacts, and the aim progresses by quarter inches
from dead straight to grazing ball, with the edge of the
object ball as the half-way house. The half-inch stages,
however, cover the overwhelming majority of necessary
contacts.

Chalk lightly and often—lightly because you need not
then tap the cue against the handsome rail of an expensive
billiard table, and often because you maintain in this way
the grip of the cue tip on the ball.

With cue-tip fasteners a small file is provided. Have
this in your pocket when playing and tap your cue tip if it
becomes shiny or chalk-clogged. This is much better than
sand-papering.

Don’t move the feet or bridge after settling down to the
stroke. The correct body alignment should be made in the
acts of sighting and bending, which are practically simultaneous.

If you have a private table don’t leave your cue standing
against a wall or in the rack. Lay it on the table under
the cloth. This is even better for it than being in a case.

Play no stroke carelessly, or you may thereby let your
opponent in for a break, and this will annoy you.


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